Austin's and KT's Restaurants: Reviewed November 11, 2006

Austin's and KT's Restaurants: Serving a heaping plate of family values

By Marty Rosen
Special to The Courier-Journal

In the American culture wars, uttering the phrase "family values" is just the thing to ignite a fiery debate over everything from hip-hop to Borat.

In dining, though, "family values" translates into ideas everyone loves: moderate prices, big portions, a menu so inclusive that everyone from toddlers to great-grandparents can find something to enjoy, efficient service and a calm, open atmosphere that encourages a family to sprawl.

KT's Restaurant and Bar's Hot Brown includes a diced tomato garnish, crunchy bacon and flavorful turkey. By Michael Hayman, The Courier-Journal

That's exactly what you'll find at two locally owned restaurants that have quietly become institutions over the last two decades: KT's Restaurant & Bar and Austin's.

They call themselves "sister" restaurants, but it might be more precise to think of them as fraternal twins. KT's, on Lexington Road, offers a bright, multilevel dining area situated among attractive brick arches. Austin's, on U.S. 42, is just as bright and spacious, but the brick arches are replaced by spans of blond wood.

Both menus are a mix of classic Southern comfort food and easy-going modern riffs.

Whether you crave a chicken potpie, grilled tuna or salmon, baked brie or potato skins, prime rib, a vegetarian pasta dish, a full bar or an inexpensive wine list, you'll find all those things at both places, at prices reasonable enough that even a large family gathering won't destroy your budget.

And if the food isn't at the cutting edge of culinary trends, so what? Sometimes a fellow just wants a competent Hot Brown ($8.99 at either restaurant).

One night, at KT's, my friend Dona had a fine variation on this Louisville classic. It arrived on a platter bigger than Shaquille O'Neal's sneakers.

And if it looked massive, it was topped by a nicely crafted mornay sauce — light, voluptuous and brightly flavored. A diced tomato garnish and crunchy bacon added color, zip and smoke, and underneath that sauce was some very flavorful turkey.

Dona's husband, Had, dined on shrimp scampi ($12.49, Austin's only). If the shrimp had been cooked just past their best state, they were garlicky enough; a bed of rice was flecked with green herbs, and accompanying steamed broccoli (chosen from a list of sides) was green perfection.

Spinach queso (KT's, $5.99; Austin's $6.49) is mild to a fault, but a big bowl of pale melted cheese with warm chips is easily enough to keep four peckish folks happy as they wait for their salads.

Salads, some designed as complete meals, others served alongside platters of catfish (Austin's, $7.99) or grilled salmon (KT's, $14.99) are crisp, fresh and accompanied by house-made dressings.

A grilled tuna sandwich (KT's, $8.99) was sadly overcooked, drier than a tavern on election day, but a 10-ounce prime sirloin (both restaurants, $15) sported dramatic grill marks, a pleasant hint of bourbon marinade, and could have served as a dictionary illustration of how "medium-rare" should look.

On a fairly busy night at KT's, we were served by a platoon of folks who seemed utterly engaged and quick to anticipate our needs.

On a slow night at Austin's, we sometimes felt abandoned — not until we were ready to leave did our server offer to refill our water glasses. But the scent of oregano hovered over a plate of spaghetti and meatballs ($8.99).

And at KT's, "Byron's Favorite" ($4.99), a chocolate-nut pie topped with ice cream was more than enough to satisfy four sweet-seeking diners.

Freelance restaurant critic Marty Rosen's review appears on Saturdays. You can e-mail him at cjdining@gmail.com

Austin's Restaurant

4950 U.S. Highway 42, Louisville, KY

502-423-1990

KT's Restaurant

2300 Lexington Road, Louisville, KY

502-458-8888

Rating: 2.5