Azalea: Reviewed March 24, 2007

Azalea's appetizers, entrees have impressive flavors

By Marty Rosen
Special to The Courier-Journal

Azalea equips all its tables with the usual dining tools — silverware, glasses, napkins, a cozy candle and so forth.

But on a recent visit, when our server presented a massive white platter of fried calamari ($8), I found myself wishing someone would lend me a tape measure as well. I won't try to estimate the size of that platter, but this was one colossal heap of extraordinarily tender rings and tentacles — and there was nary a hint of oil on the plate.

Stuffed chicken with saffron dumplings and baby vegetables. By Arza Barnett, The Courier-Journal

Even more impressive than the quantity was the quality. The squid was wrapped in a mild, crunchy breading (I would quibble that the menu's "Jamaican jerk" claim is way off base), sprinkled with jalapenos and red and yellow bell peppers, and accompanied by three luxurious dipping sauces: cilantro pesto, a puree of yellow pepper and a sweet-hot red chili.

That calamari cried out for a glass of Bell's Two Hearted Ale ($5). It was an inspired rallying cry for bar food, as fun an appetizer as anyone could wish.

Azalea offers lots of impressive flavors. A case in point: intense saffron dumplings that accompany a truffled stuffed chicken breast ($22).

The chicken itself is like a treasure chest; shaved mushrooms are tucked under the skin, the flesh is succulent, and the fragrance is at once delicate and earthy.

But in the midst of all that, there are perplexing discordant notes — uneven temperatures on the plate, nearly raw potatoes in the accompanying vegetable medley, and exceedingly long waits between courses — so long that in the absence of any comforting news from our server, we sometimes felt like exiles.

Of course, an exile could land in worse surroundings. Azalea has a handsome woody feel, bright artwork, an impressive bar area, and our window nook was a pleasant place to catch the spring twilight — if only we hadn't caught quite so much of it.

And where the chicken was a bit uneven, a piece of snapper roasted with tea and ginger was fine, indeed. A soy-orange cream gave the plate a caramel-colored accent and bit my tongue with a faint citrus burn. The fish rested on an oozing rice cake infused with ginger and scallions; capping the Asian riffs was a green and white peak of braised baby bok choy.

Many other dishes are likable — a spinach salad is packed with bacon and candied pecans (though an apple cider vinaigrette lacked the requisite acidic punch). And a brioche bread pudding (supplied by pastry chef Rachel Colvin, owner of Dolce) was so eggy and rich that it reminded us of French toast.

Some items on the menu, overhauled last autumn, have a global cast: Chinese five-spiced pork tenderloin comes with a fig balsamic reduction ($20); a smoked pork chop is dressed with ginger-currant chutney ($21); the menu includes appetizers like seared diver scallops with succotash and marsala syrup ($13) and egg rolls with purple sticky rice ($7.50).

Other options include spinach and walnut ravioli ($13); a grilled angus strip steak with a reduction sauce ($28); and an "American Kobe" burger ($12.50).

In addition to specialty cocktails, the wine list offers well over 100 options, including a number of wines by the glass.

Some folks will be delighted by options such as 2004 Miner "Wild Yeast" Chardonnay ($94) and 2000 Uccilliera Brunello ($94), but I was glad to see a reasonable selection of drinkable offerings (assorted Australian and California choices) priced in the low $20s.

But then, if I were at the bar with a platter of calamari, I'd never get past that Bell's Two Hearted Ale.

Freelance restaurant critic Marty Rosen's review appears on Saturdays. You can e-mail him at cjdining@courier-journal.com.

Azalea Restaurant

3612 Brownsboro Road, Louisville, KY

502-895-5493

Rating: 3 stars