Bistro New Albany: Reviewed July 1, 2006

Bistro New Albany: Bold Bistro - most dishes click at New Albany's new spot


By Marty Rosen
Special to The Courier-Journal

As I stepped out the door of my Old Louisville home, I checked the Weather Channel: 82 degrees. And humid.

A dozen minutes later, after a trip across the Sherman Minton Bridge, I stepped into the brick courtyard at Bistro New Albany, where a cool breeze — lured by some architectural quirk — created a cool oasis.

A Black Angus rib-eye from Kentucky's Creekstone Farms is one entree option at Bistro New Albany, which opened two months ago. By Sam Upshaw Jr., The Courier-Journal

That courtyard easily ranks among the most attractive al fresco settings in the region. A fountain gurgles at its center. Plants and lanterns hang at the perimeter. The pavers are dotted with streaks of moss. And it doesn't hurt that Miles Davis is likely to be playing quietly on the sound system.

The indoor dining spaces are just as charming, sporting white tablecloths, glistening old chandeliers and vividly colored paintings by local artists.

And two months after opening, Bistro New Albany is turning out some fine dishes. After a few visits, I found I didn't always agree with the chefs' choices, but every meal has been full of bold flavors.

Narrow spears of asparagus are charred on the grill, dressed with red peppers, fresh Capriole goat cheese and a light sherry vinaigrette for a pretty appetizer ($6.95).

A couple of dozen juicy mussels ($8.25) swimming in garlic, wine, shallots and olive oil come with house-made focaccia for sopping up the extra sauce.

Capellini with smoked chicken in a deft sauce is sublime — a light, rich dish that harmonizes cream and smoke with basil, peppers and garlic ($14.95).

A walleye special ($16.95), though, seemed to go too far. The blackened fish was perfectly prepared. So was the bright corn relish that adorned it. So was the saffron rice on which it perched. But I found the juxtaposition of Cajun spices and saffron jarring and discordant.

A Cobb salad ($7.25) also struck me as overdone — less an exercise in judicious balance than a nervous flurry of ingredients, including vast quantities of blue cheese, that bordered on unpleasant.

Still, I plan to return for roasted chicken with polenta ($14.95) or a grilled pork chop served with apple ginger relish and roasted garlic mashed potatoes ($14.95).

The fried grouper sandwich, breaded in a batter based on Elector Ale (from the New Albanian Brewing Co.), makes for a delightfully crunchy lunch or dinner ($7.25/$7.95) with lattice fries and coleslaw flavored with brown porter, an intriguing combination that tasted fine.

Other options include burgers of beef or bison (under $8), rib-eyes and sirloins from Kentucky's Creekstone Farms ($19.95/$17.95), bacon-wrapped Atlantic salmon ($15.50), and vegetarian offerings: a platter of grilled vegetables ($8.95) and penne pomodoro ($11.95).

A dozen or so reasonably priced wines ($5-$7; $20-$36) are sold by glass or bottle (for a sparkling treat, try New Mexico's Gruet Blanc de Noirs, $35).

But really — this is New Albany, home of the idiosyncratic New Albanian Brewing Co., so why drink anything else when you can drink locally made porter, red, IPA or the mellow, full-bodied Community Dark ($3.50).

And whatever you do, don't miss the house-made desserts (under $5). A warm apple compote, redolent of plums and cognac, on a raft of crisp phyllo dough, was perfect. And lemon sorbet exploded on the tongue.

Freelance restaurant critic Marty Rosen's review appears on Saturdays. You can e-mail him at cjdining@courier-journal.com.

Bistro New Albany

148 E. Market Street, New Albany, Indiana

812-949-5227

Rating: 3 stars